1. During the 59th Plenary Meeting (19th April 1995) of the former Scientific Committee (SCC), the Committee approved the Inventory of ingredients employed in cosmetic products which was proposed, in spite of its problems, in order to comply with the provisions of the 6th Amendment of the "Cosmetics" Directive 76/768/EEC. Nevertheless the SCC gave its approval under two conditions:

a- Swiftly improve the inventory on the lines proposed by the Working Party (see Annex I).

b- Clearly state in the introduction to the Inventory that it would be regularly updated.

2. The objective of the Inventory is to ensure consumer protection and information by an appropriate labelling of the ingredients using a common nomenclature, and to serve as a tool in the Commission's efforts for the protection of the consumer's health.

The following comments on the relevance of the Inventory of cosmetic ingredients may be emphasized:

a) First of all, the word "Inventory"information needed to determine a medical decision.

b) Each entry of the Inventory must include a precise identification of the cosmetic ingredient using the following parameters: its chemical name, the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) name, the European Pharmacopoeia name, the international non-proprietary names recommended by the World Health Organisation, the EINECS, IUPAC, CAS and Colour Index Numbers, and the Common Name. As a consequence, each entry must identify only one ingredient and one ingredient must be identified by only one entry.

c) The Commission has adopted as Common Names the former CTFA Names, which were re-named INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) Names to indicate their official acceptance at international level. Objective exceptions to this rule were the substitution of the English botanical names by their systematic (Linné) latin names, and the substitution of the US FDA names for certified colors by the names adopted in the Annexes of the Cosmetic Directive (CI Numbers, codified HC hair dyes etc).

3. A Commission's expert has proposed corrections and amendments to the Inventory and has reviewed the information regarding the new ingredients to be incorporated in the Update. Industry has introduced new functions and amended the Inventory accordingly.

4. A draft update concerning existing ingredients was presented by Industry in November 1998. A final Update of the Inventory should include the new ingredients and the modifications proposed for existing ingredients.

5. The Specific Working Party (SWP) "Inventory" has presented working documents on specific issues such as "INCI names of Ethyl Hexyl derivatives", "INCI names of Amphoderivatives", "Nomenclature of ingredients of botanical origin", "Section II of the Inventory on Fragrances" and has discussed these issues with the concerned bodies.

At present the information given for many entries in the Inventory is not adequate and needs to be corrected. In particular, the following six priorities must be incorporated into the 1 ^st update of the Inventory.

The adoption of these 6 recommendations by the Industry requires:

6. The Committee considers that it is indispensable to take into account the suggested modifications of the entries of the Inventory published in 1995, before the adoption of the 1 ^st update of the Inventory.

Annexe : SCC recommendations for updating the Inventory of cosmetic ingredients.

1. Include INCI nomenclature conventions to explain abbreviations and generic names.

2. Include structural formula for well defined chemicals.

3. Specify in the complex extracts (from plants or animal sources) the principal component(s) and other component(s) with specific functions.

4. Apply special case by case consideration for those natural extracts recognised as possibly containing substances known to have toxic potential. Placing into Annex III should be considered.

5. Correct the errors in common names.

6. Include well known ingredients not present in the Inventory but currently in use by the Cosmetic industry.

7. Consider ELINCS as a useful source of new ingredients for updating the Inventory.

8. Delete ingredients not presently used by the Cosmetic industry.

9. Describe more accurately the actual functions of Cosmetic ingredients.

10. If several synonyms exist for a given ingredient, make cross reference to the most widely used (e.g. "Matricaria chamomilla", See "Chamomilla recutita"; "Acid blue 1", See "C.I. 42045").

ADDENDUM

In the light of the revision of the Inventory, some particular problems concerning (1) UV filters and U`V absorbers, (2) Preservatives and Antimicrobials, have to be taken into consideration.

According to their use, both categories are submitted to restrictions (positive list Annexes) or not.

Whatever their actual regulatory status, regarding their toxicological profile they must be considered on the same basis.