1. 20th Anniversary of the
establishment of the Scientific
Committee on Cosmetology
The Chairman, Prof.
Kemper said he had the pleasure
to announce the 20th
anniversary of the Scientific
Committee on Cosmetology. The
committee, which was set up by
Commission Decision n°
78/45/EEC of 19 December 1977,
met for the first time on 19
September 1978 during which
Prof. F.A. Fairweather was
elected as its first chairman.
Since, the chair was
successively taken by Prof. L.
Gatti () from 1982 to 1984, by
Dr. R. Goulding from 1984 to
1987, by Prof. N. Loprieno from
1987 to 1993 and by Prof. F.
Kemper since 1993.
He recalled that the
committee was established to
assist the Commission in any
problem of a scientific or
technical nature in the field
of cosmetic products and
thanked all the present and
former members for their
contribution to this task for
the benefit of the consumer.
2. Adoption of the Agenda
(annex 1)
The agenda was adopted.
3. Approval of the minutes
of the 3rd plenary meeting of
20 May 1998
The minutes were adopted
subject to the following
modification :
* point 5.1 Alternatives
to Animal Testing & Dossier
: the secretariat was asked to
annex to the minutes the full
report in the written form as
provided by the co-ordinator.
4. SCCNFP - Specific Working
Parties
4.1 Alternatives to Animal
Testing & Dossier
In his report, the
co-ordinator commented on the
discussions held since the 3rd
plenary meeting of 20 May 1998.
He mentioned that the WP met 2
times and that the work was
concentrated (i) on the
revision of Annex VII
(Microbiological Quality of the
Finished Cosmetic Product) of
the Notes of Guidance and (ii)
on the Use of Human Volunteers
in the safety evaluation of
cosmetic ingredients. The
results of these discussions
are crystallised in two
documents which were presented
to the meeting.
The co-ordinator
reminded the meeting of the
time pressure the SCCNFP, and
in particular the WP
'Alternatives' is facing. The
Committee engaged itself to
present to the Commission by
the end of January 1999 the
state of the art in an opinion
on the use of alternative
methods for the safety
assessment of cosmetic
ingredients. To conclude on
this work, 2 further WP
meetings are planned still this
year as well as, if necessary,
an extra-ordinary plenary
meeting early next year.
(i) Revision of Annex
VII - Microbiological Quality
of the Finished Cosmetic
Product
(doc. n° SCCNFP/0004/98)
The revision of Annex
VII is essentially a technical
one, which was partly the
result of internal discussions
and partly the result of an
exchange of information and
discussions with other
interested parties. The
rapporteur presented and
illustrated the improvements
made to the original version.
The document was
subsequently adopted by the
plenary meeting without further
comments or modifications.
The secretariat was
asked to make the necessary
changes to the Notes of
Guidance, namely to replace the
present version of Annex VII by
the newly adopted one and to
transfer this to the Internet
edition.
(ii) Human testing (doc.
n° SCCNFP/0003/98)
The latest version, as
approved by the WP, was tabled.
This document focuses mainly on
the irritation potential of
ingredients or mixtures of
ingredients. A further document
on the irritancy of finished
products is under preparation.
The document outlines
the statement of the SCCNFP
regarding the use of human
volunteers in relation to
alternative test methods. It
was however stressed that these
guidelines on the potential use
of human volunteers may not be
seen as an alternative to
animal testing.
As a result, it was
decided not to adopt the
document at present but to
re-address it to the Working
Party concerned for further
refining, and in particular
concerning the issue of
repeated irritancy testing.
In the context of this
issue, a brief introduction and
information was given by Prof.
Ph. Masson on the difficulties
of the report he is preparing
at the request of the SCCNFP on
the various laws and
regulations in force in the
Member States of the European
Union concerning ethical
procedures for cosmetic
products and their ingredients
when intended to be
investigated on human beings.
4.2 Hair Dyes
In his report, the
co-ordinator mentioned that
there have been no WP meeting
on hair dyes since the 3rd
plenary meeting. However, the
following topics were dealt
with :
The foreseeable use of
hair dyes
It has come recently to
the attention of DG III that
the translation of 'hair' into
the official EU languages has
led to serious consequences in
the transposition of the
various technical adaptations
of the cosmetics directive.
In languages, such as
French or Spanish, hair has
been translated and transposed
at national level as relating
only to the hair on the head.
The SCCNFP was asked whether
its opinions on the safety of
hair dyes relate to the use of
such materials on the head only
or on all bodily hair.
As a result of the
discussion, the SCCNFP has
adopted the opinion that
'hair', with reference to hair
dyes within Directive
76/768/EEC on cosmetic
products, relates to all bodily
hair unless otherwise indicated
through a specific warning and
or labelling.
Pending dossiers
Since its establishment,
the scientific committee
reviewed industry submissions
on hair dyes and evaluated
their safety. However, in the
light of a discussion about the
possible establishment of a
positive list on hair dyes in
the cosmetics directive, the
secretariat prepared a 'state
of the art' on hair dyes.
Starting from this
'state of the art', which
gives, beside details on the
finalised and pending files, an
estimation of the number of
files to be expected in the
coming years, the Committee
discussed a way which offers an
approach on feasibility and
efficacy with this considerable
amount of work. The SCCNFP
asked the WP to discuss matters
under these premises and to
establish a proposal to be
presented at one of the next
meetings.
Hydroquinone
The Chairman referred
back to the previous plenary
meeting of 20 May 1998, where
it was concluded that the use
of hydroquinone as a hair dye
constituent needed further
investigation, and in
particular that the NOAEL data
should be re-evaluated and the
margin of safety
re-established.
A further safety dossier
on the use of hydroquinone in
hair dye formulation was
received shortly before this
plenary meeting. Based on this
document, the rapporteur
prepared a revised draft
opinion, which he tabled.
As a result, two
separate opinions, one on
hydroquinone as a skin
lightener, for which a
classification 2a was approved,
and one as a hair dye
constituent will exist in the
future.
4.3 Inventory
In his report, the
Co-ordinator said that the
Working Party has now discussed
and concluded on most of the
modifications to be made to the
present version of the
inventory. One further meeting
with COLIPA is planned during
which the 'new entries' will be
discussed.
In the context of the
continuing efforts of the WP to
resolve nomenclature problems
in the current inventory, the
following two documents on
nomenclature of ingredients
were adopted as position papers
of the SCCNFP :
* Report on the
nomenclature of ingredients of
botanical origin - doc n°
XXIV/182/98
Aspects of the lack of
transparency present in the
current inventory (both
sections) were presented. These
had been corrected in the
proposed new 'product-specific'
nomenclature (one entry for
each ingredient derived from
different parts of the same
plant, or by different
processings etc).
The document was adopted
as a position paper of the
SCCNFP.
* Report on Section II
of the inventory - doc. n°
SCCNFP/0022/98
It had been mentioned
many times that that Section II
of the Inventory in its present
form is unsuitable for its
intended role as a tool of
transparency and to enable the
Commission to assess issues
relating to the use of
cosmetics.
Discussions with the
fragrance industry had
indicated that they would be
unwilling to assist in
improving Section II and that
it lacked practical purpose.
Despite the fact that the
Cosmetics Directive makes the
statement 'the inventory shall
be compiled by the Commission
on the basis of information
supplied by the industry
concerned', membership of the
SCCNFP had revised the whole of
Section II. This extensive
revision has resulted in a
document where the terms are
chemically correct,
alphabetically listed, common
names are included, errors have
been removed, cross reference
is made to those substances
also present in Section I and
note is made to those
substances subject to a
restriction. The preamble to
Section II had also been
rewritten appropriately.
The plenary adopted the
document as a SCCNFP position
paper suitable for release by
DG XXIV to DG III or for
publication.
He mentioned as well
that the 1st update of the
inventory, as prepared by
COLIPA and based on the results
of the discussions held so far,
is expected to be available by
15 October 1998.
This draft 1st update
will be presented to the
Committee for its opinion. A
meeting with the Committee, DG
III, DG XXIV and COLIPA is to
be organised to seek a common
consensus of what the first
update should include. It is
expected that a final document
will be available within 4 to 5
months.
4.4 Preservatives, Colorants
& Fragrances
In his report, the
Co-ordinator mentioned the
issues dealt with since the
last plenary meeting :
* Draft opinion on
Acrylamide - doc. n°
SCCNFP/0011/98 : further safety
data were received from
industry on acrylamide since
the issue was discussed in the
WP. The rapporteur is at
present evaluating these data
and a revised draft opinion is
to be discussed during the next
WP meeting on 3 November 1998.
* Draft opinion on
Carbamide peroxide - doc. n°
SCCNFP/0058/98 : also on this
substance, a request for an
opinion was received. The
safety data are at present
under evaluation and a draft
opinion will be tabled and
discussed during next WP
meeting of 3.11.98.
* Fragrances : on 23
June 1998, a delegation from
EFFA gave a presentation of
their industry and on the
methodologies they use as part
of the safety assessment of
fragrance ingredients.
At the same time, a
document on fragrance allergy
was produced but it will be
extended and discussed at the
next WP meeting. In this
framework, a letter will be
sent to EFFA requesting to
provide the safety data they
used to assess the cutaneous
safety of substances which IFRA
recommends should have a
restricted function. DG III
mentioned they are prepared to
discuss the inclusion of the
IFRA 'not to be used' and
'restricted' substances in
Annex II and III of the
cosmetics directive,
respectively.
* Draft opinion on P21 -
Benzylhemiformal - doc. n°
SCCNFP/0033/98 : for technical
and administrative reasons, the
adoption of the opinion on this
substance had to be postponed
until the next plenary meeting.
Opinion on boric acid,
borates and tetraborates - doc.
n° SCCNFP/0025/98
At the 21st meeting of
the CATP, the Commission had
withdrawn its proposal
concerning boric acid, borates
and tetraborates from the draft
of 21st Commission Directive.
Further to the request of the
delegations of the Member
States, the Commission referred
the issue to the Scientific
Committee, which was asked to
put forward scientific
proposals for avoiding the
resorption of free boric acid.
In addition, the Cosmetic
Industry presented a further
skin penetration study, which
was discussed in the WP and
based on which the present
draft opinion prepared.
As a result of the
discussion, the following
modifications were made to the
existing draft :
* column e : replace
under a) and c) the sentence
'Not to be used on
damaged/unhealthy skin' by 'Not
to be used on damaged/unhealthy
skin, if the free soluble
borate level exceeds 1,5%
(expressed as boric acid)';
* column e : delete the
'b)'.
The opinion was
subsequently adopted by the
plenary meeting.
Opinion on Strontium
Nitrate, lactate and
polycarboxylate - doc. n°
SCCNFP/0044/98
These three substances
were put previously in Annex II
by the 15th Commission
Directive on adaptation to
technical progress of the
cosmetics directive. During the
2nd Plenary meeting of 21
January 1998, the Committee
adopted opinions on the 13 so
called 'Angelopharm'
substances, confirming their
inclusion in Annex II.
However, on the 3
strontium compounds, the
Committee adopted a provisional
opinion saying that, as far as
it is known the strontium
cation is not toxic by itself
and that compounds of strontium
for use in cosmetics should be
considered on a case by case
basis.
Consequently, Strontium
lactate, Strontium nitrate and
Strontium polycarboxylate were
further discussed by the WP and
a draft opinion prepared saying
that the three mentioned
Strontium compounds should be
withdrawn from Annex II of the
Cosmetic Directive as there is
at present no toxicological
profile known which could
substantiate an evaluation by
the SCCNFP.
This draft was discussed
by the plenary and subsequently
adopted as an opinion.
4.5 UV Filters
The Co-ordinator
reported on what has been
discussed in the Working Party
since the previous plenary
meeting. 8 dossiers are
presently under considerations,
4 of which consist of
additional questions asked to
the applicants.
* Expert panel workshop
: as reported earlier, the
Committee envisages to organise
an expert panel workshop to
address issues such as the use
of sunscreen formulations or
other sun protection measures
and their relation to malignant
or other (skin)diseases and/or
to address health risks in
general in relation to exposure
to the sun.
A remit has been
prepared for this panel, which
covers the following points :
- to advise on safety
implications of the use of UV
sunscreens and UV protection;
- to examine the
biological consequences of this
type of ingredients;
- to assess the
potential use of sunscreens and
UV filters to alter the
behaviour/exposure to the
different types of UV,
specifically in adults and
children;
- to review the
suitability of the present SPF
for consumer information.
The expert panel would
probably meet in spring or
early summer 1999 if the
budgetary premises can be
solved.
5. Report of the
Chairman
* New format for the
opinions of the SCCNFP : with
reference to the discussion on
the subject in previous
meetings, the secretariat
prepared a draft of the new
format for the opinions of the
SCCNFP. The Chairman
illustrated the rationale
behind the document and said
that it was in line with what
has been said during the
previous meeting.
The plenary concluded
that this new format should be
used from now on for new
applications.
* Rules of procedure -
doc. n° SCCNFP/0042/98 : a
final draft was prepared and
presented to the Committee. As
this document was already
discussed in the previous
plenary meetings, the Committee
adopted the documents without
further comments.
6. Questions raised by DG
III
* Specific evaluation
for children : during a
previous meeting of the
Committee on Adaptation to
Technical Progress, a question
was asked whether the SCCNFP
takes account of the particular
body weight of children while
calculating the margin of
safety for a specific
ingredient.
The plenary meeting
stated that there is clear
evidence that the SCCNFP takes
special note of the safety
concerns related to children. A
statement which was underlined
by the numerous references made
to in its opinions as 'Not to
be used for children under
three/twelve years of age',
Keep out of reach of children',
'Keep powder away from
children's nose and mouth' or '
frequent use by children is not
advisable'.
For future opinions, it
was proposed to note in a
special keyword possible
influences in children.
* Definition of Hair
Dyes : this item has been dealt
with under point 4.2 Hair dyes.
* Tattoo's : the
Committee was asked to provide
some guidelines on the safety
precautions and on the nature
of the pigments to be used.
Tattooing is seen by the
Committee as a surgical
procedure with a not negligible
risk of disease transfer. It
can be considered as a special
kind of an intentionally
permanent make-up where colours
are brought into the upper
layers of the skin. The WP
'Preservatives, Colorants and
Fragrances' was asked to take
this issue on board and to
prepare, if possible, a draft
paper on it.
* Tallow derivatives :
the wording of the SCC opinion
of 24.6.97 on tallow
derivatives was slightly
revised and adapted to bring it
in line with the opinions
adopted by the other Scientific
Committees on the issue. In its
opinion, under the point
'transesterification/hydrolysis'
the wording '40 bar' is
replaced by the wording 'under
pressure'.
7. Any Other Business
* Plenary meetings in
1999 - the following dates were
fixed
20 January 1999
17 February 1999
23 June 1999
30 September 1999
8 December 1999
* Household products :
the question was raised by the
Co-ordinator of the WP
'Preservatives, Colorants &
Fragrances' as to whether this
Committee is the right forum to
introduce issues on household
products and their cutaneous
safety. The Commission answered
that, indeed, this is the case.
Under normal practice, the
opinion of a scientific
committee is sought in the
framework of a directive or any
other piece of legislation.
However, the legislation on
detergents is on its way and a
state of the art on the issue
will be given during one of the
next plenary meetings.
Attendance List
Present:
Mr K.E. Andersen, Mr R.
Anton, Mr J-F. Doré, Mr P.
Elsner, Mr V. Kapoulas, Mr F.
Kemper, Mr B. Lina, Mr N.
Loprieno, Mr J. Parra, Mr C.J.
Powell, Mrs V. Rogiers, Mr T.
Sanner, Mr J. Vives Rego, Mr I.
White
External experts: Mr L.
Celleno, Mrs J.D. Johansen, Mr
D. O'Mahony, Mr Ph. Masson, Mr.
L. Pons Gimier
Commission : Mr L.
Bansil DG III, Mrs P. Decamps
DG XXIV, Mr W. De Klerck DG
XXIV, Mrs M. de Solà DG XXIV,
Mrs F. Drion DG XXIV, Mr A. Van
Elst DG XXIV
Apologies : Mr P. Blain,
Mrs Y. De Roeck-Holtzhauer
ANNEX 1
Scientific Committee on
Cosmetic and Non-Food Products
Agenda for the 4th
plenary meeting
(Brussels, 23 September
1998)
1. 20th Anniversary of
the establishment of the
Scientific Committee on
Cosmetology
2. Adoption of the
agenda SCCNFP/0041/98
3. Approval of the
minutes of the 3rd plenary
meeting of 20.5.98
SCCNFP/0050/98
4. SCCNFP - Specific
Working Parties
4.1 Alternatives
Report of the
Co-ordinator
Minutes of the meeting
of 15-16.6.98 SCCNFP/0021/98
Oral report on meeting
22.9.98
Annex VII :
Microbiological Quality of the
finished cosmetic product -
SCCNFP/0004/98
Guidelines on the use of
human volunteers in the testing
of potentially cutaneous
irritant cosmetic ingredients
SCCNFP/0003/98
4.2 Hair Dyes
Report of the
Co-ordinator, including working
programme
Hydroquinone
XXIV/2002/97
4.3 Inventory
Report of the
Co-ordinator
Report on botanicals
XXIV/1828/98
Report on Section II of
the inventory (Fragrances)
SCCNFP/0022/98
4.4 Preservatives
Report of the
Co-ordinator
Draft opinion on
Benzylhemiformal (P21)
SCCNFP/0033/98
Opinion on Boric acid,
borates and tetraborates
SCCNFP/0025/98
Opinion on Strontium
lactate, nitrate and
polycarboxylate SCCNFP/0044/98
4.5 UV Filters
Report of the
Co-ordinator
Expert panel meeting
"Sun Protection"
5. Report of the
Chairman
Format and structure of
the opinions of the Scientific
Committees - SCCNFP/0000/98
Rules of Procedure of
the SCCNFP SCCNFP/0042/98
6. Questions raised by
DG III
Specific evaluation for
children
Classification of
substances
Definition of hair dyes
type
Tattoos
7. Any other business
Planning plenary
meetings in 1999